Make A 14-Sided Photo Cube
by Mike Massei

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This is a photo “cube” that can display any photos you want. It makes a nice gift and can be flattened to fit in an envelope for mailing. This isn't what I would consider a simple project, so read through these instructions first and see if it's something you want to try.

For these instructions I am using Photoshop CS2. Photoshop novices may have a difficult time following along. I will walk you through some steps, but this is not a Photoshop tutorial. You should have an understanding of Layers, Layer Groups and the Layers Palette. You should also know how to use the selection tool, resize objects, and rotate objects precisely (60 degrees, 120 degrees, etc). I am not including any diagrams in these instructions.

 

Getting Started

Download the Photo Cube Photoshop template (4.3 MB)
Also includes these instructions in MS Word format.

Open the Photo Cube template (PSD) file. In the Layers palette you will see the following:

  • Photos (group). All photos are placed and arranged in here. Each photo is its own layer for easier manipulation. To see the photo layers, open the group by clicking the little arrow. The photos included are deliberately blurred out. Be sure to remove all the included photo layers before adding your own.

  • Panels Top and Panels Bottom (groups). These contain the main pattern for the “cube” (I know it isn't a cube, so sue me). Each photo should be made to fit exactly in each black panel. Use it as an alignment guide. You shouldn't have any reason to open these groups.
  • Rubberband Hooks (group). In here are the 4 grey rubberband hook thingies. Shouldn't need to open this group.
  • Blk Border (optional). When this layer is made visible it creates a thin black border around the entire pattern. In case you cut out the pattern with scissors imperfectly, there will be black bordering the photo. Note that you want to cut out the pattern at the edge of the photos, not around this black border. The border was drawn imperfect just to allow for error when cutting. You can use this layer when printing, or leave it off.
  • Background. The white background, just leave it on.

 

Adding Photos

This pattern was saved at a resolution of 150. This can be raised if you want your photos even clearer, but I find that 150 is fine.

You will need to place and edit your photos one at a time. I find it easier to crop and resize the photos a little before bringing them into the pattern document. Once they are in the pattern you can them resize them more precisely and cut them to shape.

Simply open the photo in Photoshop, then drag n drop it photo into the pattern document (use the Move tool or hit V to drag a photo). A new layer will be created automatically for each photo, which is what you want. Drag the photo into the “Photos” layer group (in the Layers Palette) for easier management. This group should already be filled with blurred out photos. These were included as an example. You should delete them all before you begin adding your own.

If you have Photoshop CS2 or higher, make each photo a “smart object” for resizing (so you don't lose quality). If you don't know what “smart objects” are, just skip it, or learn about them in the Help file. Do not rotate the photo yet.

After getting the photo the correct approximate size you can cut it to the correct shape – either a trapezoid for the side panels, or a hexagon for the top and bottom panels.

I included premade selection objects for cutting the photos. At the top Photoshop menu, go to Select then Load Selection. A popup menu will appear. Now go to Channel and select either Side Face (trapezoid) or Top (hexagon), depending on which panel you are making the photo for. A selection area will appear in your document (shape outlined with a dotted line). This is the exact shape and size that the picture needs to be.

You can drag the selection object around the document and position it over the photo (hit the M key on the keyboard to drag the selection object around). If the photo is still the wrong size, you can adjust it more (CTRL-T). In order to adjust it, you will first need to get rid of the selection area you just loaded (hit CTRL–D to get rid of it). After resizing your photo, you can use CTRL–Shift–D to bring back the selection area, or just go to the Selection menu again and reload it.

 

Cut And Position The Photo

When you are ready, you can cut the photo to the correct shape. Place the selection object (shape with the dotted line – trapezoid or hexagon) over the photo exactly where you want it. Next, go to the top menu and go to Select then Invert Selection. Now, just hit the Delete key and you will be left with a photo cut to the perfect shape for your panel. Use CTRL–D to get rid of the selection object. You can now reposition and rotate your photo (if needed) to fit the desired panel.

Important: Make sure you don't place the photos upside-down. Note that in the photo on page 1 of these instructions that when the cube is sitting upright that the top photos are oriented correctly and the bottom photos are upside-down. That way the cube can be flipped over to display the other photos correctly. Just remember that all the photos are narrower at the top.

The side panels are rotated in 60 degree increments (360 divided by 6). In Photoshop you can rotate your photos to an exact amount. With the desired photo layer selected, go to the top menu and use Edit then Transform then Rotate (or just use CTRL-T). Your photo should be “selected” and ready to transform or rotate.

Now look at the top area of the Photoshop window below the top menu. There should be several boxes with numbers in them. The boxes are labeled X, Y, W, H, and so forth. There should also be a box with a little “angle” to the the left of it, and a “degrees” symbol (little circle) to the right. In this box you can type the amount of angle of rotation you want added to or subtracted from the selected photo. You may use positive or negative numbers depending on which direction you want to rotate (positive is clockwise). Experiment to familiarize yourself with this if you need to. Remember you can always undo your mistakes using the History palette.

Once you rotate the photo, click back on the document anywhere, then hit Enter to accept and complete the rotation. You may now position the photo exactly over one of the panels. You may want to zoom in for precision.


...And Repeat

Repeat these steps for each photo. This is very time consuming. For the center panels (hexagon shapes that will comprise the top and bottom of your cube) be sure to load the “Top” selection, instead of the side face, under the Load Selection Menu.

 

Printing

Before printing, be sure the little grey tabs and the Rubberband hooks are visible. These only show up on some of the panels, not all of them. These are the parts where you apply glue so this thing stays together. Also decide whether or not you you want the “Blk Border” layer visible.

I used 8.5” x 11” glossy photo paper and printed it on my own printer. If you can make it bigger, go for it. It would be ideal to use thicker stock but I don't know where to find it. Remember in your printer settings to specify that you are using glossy photo paper and set it for high quality. Use “Print Preview” and make the image fit the entire sheet – as big as you can. You can also have it printed at a photo lab if you don't have a good printer.

 

Cutting And Preparing The Pattern

If you thought things were difficult up to this point, you ain't seen nuthin' yet!

Make sure your hands are clean throughout the rest of this process. I washed mine several times during construction to make sure there was no glue on my fingers.

Next step is to cut out your pattern. Use some small scissors and start cutting. Get as close as you can to the edge of each photo. A little sliver of white border may appear around the photos if your cuts aren't perfect, which is okay. If you used the black border layer then your border will be black instead of white.

Take care when cutting the curved rubberband hook areas. This can be difficult. You don't want to bend or crease the little hook area because it may weaken it. You can use a sharp razorblades knife if you prefer. Remember a rubberband will be looped around these hooks and stretched across the inside of the cube to hold it together.

Once the pattern is cut out you can start pre-folding/creasing all the areas that need it, including the little grey tabs. Hopefully this is self explanatory because I don't know how to explain this step. Just fold and crease and be as precise as you can.

 

Constructing The Cube

It should be fairly obvious at this point how this thing will come together. Refer to the picture on page one if you need to.

I used regular Elmer's brand white glue for this. You will also need 1 rubberband. I recommend a pretty thin one because if it is too strong it may pull your cube together and implode it. The thicker the paper, the better. You can use a big yet thin rubberband. You may need to tie a knot in it so it is not too loose. Getting the rubberband at the correct tension to hold the cube together, yet also allowing the cube to be flattened which stretches the rubberband, is perhaps the trickiest part. If you never intend to flatten the cube (say to put in an envelope for sending to someone) then this is not quite as difficult. I wouldn't try and adjust the rubberband just yet. We'll do it a little later.

The only place you need to apply glue is on the grey areas. Do just one at a time. I suggest beginning with the grey rubberband tab that is nearest the point where the cube is folded in half. First, fold in the grey tab. Apply the glue - just a very small amount – then spread it out thin with a small piece of paper. A scrap from your cutting will work perfect. Completely cover the grey tab area with a very thin coating. You only need glue on one of the tabs.

Now carefully fold and press it to the opposite tab (with the rubberband hook) and line it up as good as you can. Press them together firmly for a few seconds. I don't use my bare fingers for this. I use a clean folded scrap of paper so I don't need to touch the photo directly. There may be glue on your fingers, plus you will leave fingerprints if you use your bare fingers. You must take great care when handling the cube from this point on. Take your time.

If any glue seeps out, wipe it away with the edge of a scrap of paper.

Wait a few minutes, then do the grey tab on the other side of the part where the pattern was folded in half. This won't have the rubberband hook part on it. Just glue this beneath the appropriate photo panel.

Next to this tab is the other rubberband hook tab. Glue these together and give it a few minutes to set and dry.

 

The Rubber Band

At this point you should attach the rubber band. You may need to knot the rubberband, or even select a different one. It isn't until this step that you can really figure this part out. It will take some trial and error. As stated earlier, a thin long rubberband may be best. You may need to knot it in order to shorten it.

When you get it right, carefully loop it around the hooks. If you think you have the proper tension, dab a little glue where the rubberband meets the paper “hooks”, just to make sure it doesn't slip off while you complete the cube. Once the cube is completed you will not be able to get to the rubberband, at least not easily.

Finally, glue the rest of your cube together. That's it! Take a step back and admire your handiwork...you deserve it!

 

Tip

If you want to mail your cube to someone, carefully flatten it. The rubberband will stretch so make sure it flattens properly. Use a piece of cardboard folded in half and sandwich the flattened cube inside it. The cardboard will keep the cube from trying to pop open inside the envelope. Tape the cardboard closed.

 

The End!!!

Any comments or questions can be emailed to me.